Trailhead: North Lake Trailhead
Elevation: 13225 ft
Route: Waterfall Route
Difficulty: 5.4
Mount Emerson is one of the 13,000 foot peaks that decorate the Bishop skyline, and though it's less prominent than some of the famous peaks like Mount Tom and Mount Humphrey's it's a gorgeous peak in it's own right. Moreover it is not difficult to do it as a half day trip out of the North Lake trailhead as a warmup for bigger mountains or just to have some fun when time or motivation is limited.
Nearing the summit of Mount Emerson after the long summit ridge
This was my second time climbing Emerson, the first being with GG during August of a year with a solar eclipse visible in the northern hemisphere. While everyone else flocked to Oregon to try and see the total eclipse, we stayed in CA and climbed, hoping to get at least a partial glimpse. The day was overcast and we gave up trying to see the eclipse, but around the time of the event the temperature dropped and it began to snow in August. I was in shorts and froze my hands on the long 13,000 ft summit ridge but we made it without mishap.
This time, I went with a friend who was in Bishop for a long weekend. It had snowed quite heavily the week before but the forecast was for stable (if cold) weather. We parked just outside the North Lake campground and wandered up the trail towards Pauite Pass. Just below the face of Mount Emerson, after a series of switchbacks, a cairn marks a faint climbers trail towards the start of the route.
The route starts in a blocky water streak on the southeast face of Emerson. We chose to solo the first 5.4 segment, although we had a short rope in a backpack in case we became unsure of ourselves.
Snow dusting northern aspects in Paiute Canyon
I used to be terrified of climbing without a rope. I would imagine what would happen if I were to fall, even if I was climbing terrain no more frightening than a staircase in your house. The fear was completely paralyzing and made the climbing feel harder and more dangerous - I'm not a very good climber when adrenaline is dumping into my blood and my heart is beating at its maximum. Some of this is reasonable. The mountains are dangerous and the rock can be loose. Even easy climbing has hazards. But much of it is not rational. The things that I will climb without a rope are generally so easy that it would be difficult to fall and would require a real lapse of attention or an outside force to cause an accident.
Recently I've noticed this phenomena starting to dissipate. I am finding it easier to remind myself how stable I am, how my feet are both on solid rock and I am holding solid rock with both hands. How I can take a step up if I want. Or if I don't, how I can take a step down, and then another, and then another and be back on the ground or a big ledge. How I can test every new hold to see if it is stable before I use it. This has been a great relief to me and has helped me to enjoy fourth class / easy fifth class peaks like Emerson much more.
I still don't like climbing without a rope. But it has its place in mountain travel.
After the initial pitch of 5.4, this gully of Emerson winds up the mountain through third class terrain for thousands of vertical feet. Views of the Evolution Range start to appear to the south. This face of the peak is relatively sheltered and sunny and although we could see the wind starting to whip up clouds near the summit we felt comfortable and happy cruising up the easy rock.
Finally we emerged onto the huge summit ridge of Emerson. Snow from the recent storm caked ledges in the shadows forcing us onto the ridge proper and lending an alpine feel to the moment.
Snow plastered on shady aspects
I didn't appreciate how awe inspiring this ridge is the first time I did Emerson. It winds in a long curve towards the north summit. The terrain to the west drops a thousand feet towards Piute pass. To the east, steep crumbly rock prevents the climber from taking a more direct line towards the summit. You are forced directly onto this slim ridge which undulates up and over multiple gendarmes as it leads you towards the summit and your descent route.
The summit ridge of Mount Emerson
The descent looks improbable from the summit but if you squint off towards the southwest you can see faint use trails winding through the talus below. Aim for these as you downclimb thirdclass rock and you eventually end up in scree-surfing terrain on your way down to the pass. Intersect the trail and return the way you came.
Back on the trail near a partially iced Loch Leven